Silver Viking Weave Necklace With Pearls

Just finished this - making two identical for a friend to give as Christmas gifts.  The second one still needs the clasp.  This is approximately 60 feet of 26 ga sterling wire, woven around a dowel and drawn through a draw plate through successively smaller holes until it is tight.

The pendant is fine silver, dapped, with a freshwater pearl dangle.  The clasp is pewter, sterling, freshwater pearls and Swarovski crystals.  I'm very happy with it.  I think I'll make the pearl jump ring a little smaller so it dangles instead of hitting bottom.  :)  When my e-commerce site goes live in January, I'll have professional photos and these will be for sale on a commission basis, with choices of metals and stones.

Silver and Rocks. My Two Favorite Pieces

These are two pieces I made a few years ago.  They are both sterling silver and the ginkgo leaf was made from using an actual ginkgo leaf I found as a template.  That piece is set with brown labradorite.  The other piece is my take on Danish Modern, and is a simple shape that my saw just decided to cut.  It's set with a rhodochrosite.

I love both of them.  I want to get back into a studio that has appropriate equipment so I can make more!

The photo below is of the brooch prior to actually setting the stone.  I had not pushed the bezel into place on the stone.  

Got Pearls?

So...in 2006 I went to a bead and gem show when I was living in Richmond, VA.  I went on the last day of the show - you know how that goes.  Everything is marked waaaay down because those vendors don't want to pack it up and take it home.  I spent $300 that day and I'm still using up that stock.  I bought these pearls simply because they were so pretty.  I wasn't a very good beader then, and I had no clue how to use them.  So they sat.  And sat.  And moved when I moved.  They got looked at, fondled, arranged, and finally, yesterday, I decided to use them.  This is the beginning of a sterling bangle that will have the teardrop pearls wired on one side and probably 8mm jet Swarovski on the other side.  Onyx would be better, but I'm out.  The Swarovski top-drilled bicone is set off-center because the other side will have one set just off center in the other direction. 

Once finished the entire piece will be wrapped with 28 ga fine silver, and all wires that show will be brought in close with pliers and tucked in before the final wrap starts.  The clasp will be an S-hook with a closed end. 

Doesn't look like much now, but I'll photo again when finished.  It'll be an interesting contrast of black and white.  I think it'll turn out well.  We'll see.  :)

Beaded Copper Wreath

This is a wreath/suncatcher that I made for my neighbor's baby.  The frame is 12 gauge round copper wire, twisted and then hammered flat to create open links so beads can be wired to it.  The wreath is 8" in diameter.  I got lucky with this - the baby's nursery contained colors of beads that I already had.  The seeds around the outer rim of the frame are 8/0 Toho in three shades of blue and grass green.  The inner rim of the wreath has been wired with 4mm Swarovski crystals in Dark Rose AB (I think that's the color!).  I have tons of these from a bulk purchase I made years ago. The flower is also Swarovski, in 4mm using the same pink for the flower, yellow 3mm for the center, and 4mm chrysoprase (again - I think this is the color!) for the stem and leaves.  The dragonfly is a mix of Swarovski pinks and sizes.

The initial in the middle is a stylized A, made from 14 ga round copper wire, and selectively hammered. It's a heavy piece!

You can see the frame below.  The frame, by itself would be lovely, but I wanted to match colors with the little new person's nursery.  Actually, the frame is pretty versatile.  You can use it for a lot of different decorative purposes.  It's sturdy and if you don't solder, it's easy to wire the ends closed so they never come apart.  If you're using the frame without decoration on it, I suggest soldering so the wires don't show.  

Hammered Copper Sweater Pin

So, I saw something similar to this recently and I thought, "Hey- I have all that 14 and 16 ga wire.  This is a good use for it!  So I decided to try a pin.  I already knew how to make a pin back, since I'm a metalsmith (without an equipment-filled studio at the moment!), and I wanted something that was completely cold-connection because it can be difficult to solder heavy gauge metal with a micro-torch.  This is two pieces of  16 ga wire.  It's sturdy and it is most definitely a sweater pin.  You don't want to put that pin back in a tee shirt or delicate blouse.  You'll have a hole that won't go away.  But for cardigans, winter scarves, and more loosely or bulky knitted items, this is a fabulous accessory.

I re-learned a few techniques on it, and one of the basic rules of metal working:  get your shape the way you want it BEFORE hammering.  DUH.  Naturally, there will be a few adjustments to make afterwards, but for the most part you want your piece to be in the shape you want it to be before you start hammering it.  Hammering, and working the wire in any fashion will work-harden it.  This is dead soft wire, stripped from an electrical cable.  I have tons of it.  Stripping it is difficult because you can't use wire strippers.  They mar the metal and create weak points.  I strip mine by laying it on a piece of plywood and using an exacto-knife very carefully.  Give it a try - this was quick and easy to make and while I'm going to re-make it, since this was a prototype, I'll wear this one this winter.

Remember, when making your pin back, you must twist that wire until it's straight and it provides tension against the clasp or hook.  I don't have the hook on this yet, but that pin back won't buckle under pressure. Also, when filing the end to a point, remember that sharp objects can draw blood and tear clothing, so don't make it too sharp.  It's for sweaters - it doesn't have to be super sharp.

Another Viking Weave Bracelet

This is another Viking weave bracelet that I've just finished.  I made my own ends by coiling 20 ga dead soft wire around bail making pliers that match the size of the bracelet, and then used the wire tail to create a spiral "cap" to cover the ends of the bracelet.  The beads are chrysocola (sp?) and a 4mm sterling bead, and the bracelet is finished with an S hook clasp.  I need to re-do the jump ring attachments - was trying for a look that didn't succeed, so those are on the list for a do-over.  :)

Silver Filled Wire vs Sterling Silver or Fine Silver

As a rule, I've always worked in sterling silver or fine silver.  With the price as it is right now, it's affordable, but if what I've been reading is any indication, silver is about to skyrocket and by 2014, will be unaffordable for the average artisan.  Silver filled wire is an excellent alternative.  It wears the same as sterling, it works just as well, as long as you don't use abrasives to polish or buff it.  You have to be careful with that because in polishing and buffing, you will wear away layers of silver and base metal may start to show.

People who say they can only wear gold or silver can also wear silver filled or gold filled jewelry.  It lasts very well, is a fraction of the price of the precious metal, and if taken care of, will last just as long.  I have gold filled pieces that are more than 100 years old and still have the luster of high karat gold, so don't let your customers think they're getting any less for their money.

Silver filled metal and wire is made according to the diagram graciously provided by Rio Grande, pictured below:

I intend to start using this for all my head and eye pins and ear wires.  I will always have sterling on hand for those customers who absolutely insist on sterling earwires, but if a customer is willing to be educated, they will see that this is a fabulous alternative and it makes the jewelry affordable to them.  If silver goes higher than $50 a troy ounce, as it's predicted to go - some say as high as $250 a troy ounce, who will be able to afford to buy it, and/or buy pieces made with it?  I don't know about you, but my small sales are the bread and butter of my business.  The earrings I currently sell for $20 would wind up being more than $100 a pair and I don't think my customers would buy.  They can't afford it.  

Give it a try.  It works just as well as sterling or fine silver.  It solders well (use silver solder) and it patinates just as well as sterling or fine silver.