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Saturday, March 12, 2011

Wire Wrapping the Bracelet Below

What you'll need:

28 ga wire, dead soft
22 ga wire, dead soft
two jump rings
clasp and clasp end
round nose pliers
half-round pliers if you have them
chain nose pliers
flush cutters
a lot of 2mm beads
5-7 beads for the body of the bracelet (quantity depends on size and shape of bead)
Flat surface to work on.
Patience

To create this bracelet (which is not yet finished, because life got in the way) I cut 6 strands of 28ga dead soft sterling wire to a length of approximately 16 inches each. I use dead soft because as you wrap, the wire work-hardens, and if you're not using dead-soft, the wire will become brittle and could easily break in the middle of a wrap. That's no fun.

1. Gather the wires in your hand and smooth them out - just hold them together by the ends in one hand and "smooth" them out with your other hand - this will take a little of the coil out of the wire.

2. Make your clasp eye end. I used the wide end of my round nose pliers, but you could use anything that will make it round and the size you want. It should be small since you will add a jump ring to it. Remember this when you're adding beads - as this will add length to the bracelet. Grasp all 6 wires in the pliers and bend, leaving about 1/4 inch at the bottom of the loop. Holding the loop in your pliers, in one hand, use your chain nose pliers to crimp the bottom of the loop together on both sides - this will bring the extra 1/4" of the loop flush with the opposite 6 wires. You will have a double thickness of wires now.

3. Cut a 6" piece of 28ga wire and begin wrapping toward the loop from the bottom of the 1/4 inch extra portion. The cut ends need to be covered, so you will need to start just a hair below. Wrap all the way up to the bottom of the loop and then continue on wrapping the loop itself. You should end on the bottom side of the loop opposite the side where you started.

4. Cut your wrap wire and crimp the end down smoothly with your chain nose pliers. Not: if possible, don't use ANY pliers on metal that have teeth. They will leave marks.

5. Next, lay the entire length of wire out on your work table and find the two middle wires. Bend the other four away from the middle wires, in opposite directions.

6. Thread the bead of your choice on the two middle wires - I used flat MOP disks - they were much easier to work with than round beads, but you can use whatever you want.

7. Push the bead up tight against the other wires. Choose one of the two middle wires and bend it at a right angle away from the bead. this will be your wrap wire.

8. Bring two wires smoothly across the front of the bead and two wires smoothly across the back of the bead.

9. You should now have five wires at the end of the bead - two coming over the top, and two coming up from the bottom and one in the middle. Crimp those wires together - I just use my fingernails and bend the wire as tightly up against the end of the bead as I can.

10. Take the middle wire that you separated out in step 7, and wrap the other wires with it, wrapping tightly and close together 7 times.

Repeat this process until you have the bracelet the size you want it, prior to adding the clasp hook.

11. At the end of the beads, make another loop exactly like the one you made when you started. Remember to make it small, as you will add a small jump ring and a lobster clasp to it.

12. Now cut some 22 ga wire. You will use this to wrap the intervals between each bead that you've already wrapped with the 28 ga wire. Using the 22 ga lends strength and stability to the bracelet. Wrap each interval, making sure to keep it tight, close and to flatten your ends as well as you can. If possible, smooth them with a cup burr before you start wrapping - this will keep the wires from catching or scratching.

13. Cut a 28ga wire twice as long as the bracelet and add 4 inches. This is the bead stringing wire.

14. Start by wrapping the bead stringing wire tightly around the small space between the starter MOP disk and the clasp end. Wrap tightly. String 2mm beads on the wire until they meet the end of the bead, framing the edge of it. Holding the wire tightly at the bottom of the bead, wrap it around the first interval station three times, with your wire feeding in the opposite direction from the first strand of 2mm beads. Start stringing your 2mm beads again and repeat the steps in the preceding sentences.

You'll be doing half of a figure 8 all the way down one side and then when you reach the end of the bracelet, start on your way back up.

15. Once you've finished the 2mm beading, end by wrapping the wire between the clasp end and the end of the first bead and cut the wire, flattening it so the end doesn't pop up.

16. Attach your clasp ends - you can use whatever kind you choose - I chose a lobster because it's easer to clasp than some.

17. Bend the bracelet (which should be fairly strong and well-hardened by this point) until it fits around your wrist, use your pliers if needed to straighten and flatten areas that need it, put it around your wrist and wear with pride!

More photos coming, but I can't promise them tomorrow. :) Post here or contact me if you have questions. I'd make short videos for it but I'm unfortunately not set up to do that. :(